Now we’re cooking! – by Michael Estrin






So far as I do know, there aren’t any Balinese eating places in Los Angeles. However my data on this space is proscribed. So perhaps I’m completely incorrect about that. Perhaps there’s a Little Bali in some nook or cranny of Los Angeles I’ve by no means explored. However I’ve by no means come throughout Balinese meals again residence, and I’ve actually by no means heard a buddy sing the praises of a hole-in-the-wall Balinese joint they know. Come to consider it, I can’t identify any Indonesian eating places in LA, both.

Earlier than we left, Kevin, my spouse’s cousin’s husband requested me what folks eat in Bali. I instructed him I knew they ate a variety of rice, and I believed they ate satay, however past that I didn’t actually know.

“In Amsterdam, we had an elaborate meal referred to as Rijsttafel,” I instructed Kevin. “The meal consists of, like, twenty little plates. All these completely different Indonesian dishes. However I’m undecided if that’s legit Indonesian, or extra like what Indonesian folks suppose Dutch folks wish to eat after they say, let’s go for Indonesian tonight. Type of like how American’s love Normal Tso’s rooster, however Chinese language folks have by no means heard of Normal Tso or his rooster.”

However as quickly as we arrived in Bali, I noticed that I had eaten Indonesian meals earlier than. In Singapore’s hawker facilities, considered one of my go-to dishes is nasi goreng. It’s fried rice with some greens, perhaps some crispy rooster on the aspect, and a fried egg, plus peanuts. On the time, I believed nasi goreng was a Malay dish. Truly, it’s a Malay dish, but it surely’s additionally an Indonesian dish, in addition to one thing you discover in Sri Lanka, Brunei, and naturally, Singapore. Nasi goreng varies from one nation to the following, however the variations are extra in regards to the spices that taste the dish, whereas the core elements keep the identical, I believe. So, like I mentioned, perhaps I’ve had Indonesian meals earlier than, and perhaps I haven’t.

Should you’re confused by this back-and-forth, know that I too am confused. Think about the confusion a disclaimer, and please proceed with warning. As a result of initially I believed this journey can be about discovering Indonesian meals, then as I realized extra about Bali and its place within the Indonesian archipelago, I noticed our journey was really about sampling Balinese meals. After which as we speak, in an effort to additional confuse my palate and my readers, we took a cooking course.

Our trainer was a lady named Batum. I requested her to spell her identify as a result of I didn’t wish to half-ass this dispatch, however there was a language barrier, so Batum it’s. Anyway, Batum was an incredible trainer.

We began with the elements, or as a fancy-pants meals snob who binge watches the entire cooking exhibits may say, mise en place. A number of the elements, like shallots, garlic, and ginger, had been acquainted. Different elements like ginger flower, candlenut, and kencur root, aren’t issues I’ve seen at Dealer Joe’s, Ralph’s, and even Entire (Meals) Paycheck.

As we sliced and diced, Batum defined the scenario that was about to unfold.

“First, we make Bumbu Bali,” she mentioned. “It’s paste made with garlic, shallots, ginger, kencur, galangal, turmeric, shrimp paste, black pepper, coriander seed, candlenut, and crimson chili.”

“Wow, that’s a variety of stuff,” I mentioned. “Can we mix all of it up?”

“We use Balinese blender.”

Do you know the Balinese invented the blender? Solely their “blender” is a hand-power device referred to as a ulekan, which is type of like a mortar and pestle, solely the mortar half is a shallow, round dish a couple of foot in diameter.

The ulekan isn’t only a kitchen important, it’s additionally an incredible exercise.

“Bumbu Bali is essential,” Batum mentioned. “We put it in every thing.”

I believed she was kidding, however she wasn’t. Bumbu Bali is type of like Bali’s reply to curry paste, and it went into every thing we made, even the corn fritters.

“Is corn a conventional Balinese ingredient?” I requested.

“Sure, Balinese love corn.”

I knew that was true. Corn fritters are all the time on the menu right here, and each farm appears to have a bit for rising corn. However as an novice historian and confused foodie, I’ve been obsessive about a corn-related thriller on this journey. I all the time thought corn was native to the Americas. However after all, “native” is a difficult idea on a planet that’s been doing globalization, in a single kind or one other, for seven centuries. What I used to be actually asking Batum was whether or not the Balinese had corn again within the day, or if it got here right here extra not too long ago, perhaps on crusing ships again when Bali was a part of the spice islands, or perhaps within the final hundred years, because of American affect? However I couldn’t fairly get my query throughout to Batum, and I haven’t fairly been capable of get it throughout to the opposite Balinese folks we’ve met, both. So for now, I’m submitting Bali’s obsession with corn below ‘D’ for scrumptious and cross-referencing it below ‘U’ for unsolved.

Fortunately, Batum was capable of clear up the bigger thriller of Indonesian-Balinese meals.

“We make each,” she mentioned. “Some dishes Indonesian, some Balinese.”

Then Batum went on to elucidate that at this specific second in Bali’s historical past, Indonesian delicacies and Balinese delicacies coexist, very similar to Hinduism coexists with the animism on the core of Bali’s cultural traditions. A great instance of what I’m speaking about was the final dish we made.

I cooked fried rice (Balinese), whereas Christina made stir-fried noodles (Indonesian). The elements—together with Bumbu Bali, naturally—had been principally the identical, apart from the starches. Additionally, we cooked the rice and the noodles in woks, which after all, come from China. However then once more, the historic file means that the folks of Bali initially got here from China too, so perhaps it’s finest to not suppose too rigidly about what makes for “legit” delicacies.

Michael repping Bali. Christina repping Indonesia.

Ultimately, we made 9 dishes. Approach an excessive amount of meals! However we additionally realized a number of tips.

First, it pays to make Bumbu Bali in bulk. You possibly can even freeze it for as much as a month. That’s what Batum mentioned she does as a result of “you don’t have time to cook dinner it each night time, however you want it for every thing you cook dinner.” Meal prep, folks, am I proper?

Second, everybody has their very own sambal recipe. Some prefer it scorching, some don’t. “It’s like salsa,” Batum mentioned. “You select.”

Third, Balinese cooks have the right therapy for mosquito bites: shallots. At Batum’s urging, we rubbed uncooked shallot on our mosquito bites and the itching vanished! That’s a complete game-changer for subsequent summer time at Casa de Michael & Christina.

However again to the meals. It was wonderful! Christina’s favourite dish was the fried rice. For me, it was a toss-up between the rooster satay on lemongrass skewers and the sayur urap (Balinese salad). Right here’s a photograph of our lunch. Ten out of ten would suggest!

Minutes after this picture was taken, the meals seen right here was decimated by two hungry novice cooks named Michael and Christina.

After all, we couldn’t have executed any of this with out Batum’s assist. However as we completed up, Christina and I noticed that we would not have the ability to replicate what we’d made in our kitchen again residence. We hadn’t written any of these things down.

“Do you keep in mind the recipe for peanut sauce?” Christina requested. “What in regards to the steamed rooster in banana leaves? How can we try this?”

“Don’t fear,” Batum mentioned. “I offer you recipes.”

Once more, wonderful! Now all I’ve to do is determine the best way to supply a few of these Balinese elements. However then once more, commerce has been a central a part of Balinese life for greater than a thousand years, and I’m positive the world’s final dealer, Jeff Bezos, has some folks in Denpasar prepared to satisfy my Balinese procuring listing.

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